Thursday, May 10, 2012

Saying Goodbye to Minerva

We're expecting to leave Minerva tomorrow morning. The winds have backed, and we should have much improved conditions for the last 400+ miles that we have to cover before making landfall in Savusavu.

This has been an awesome little pit stop for us. We did some great snorkeling yesterday, had dinner with Piko and Dilligaf until late in the night and have managed to get the boat feeling a little more under control than it was when we raced out of Opua. I still haven't mounted our new solar panels, but otherwise we're in perfect shape and in high spirits.

We're doing a little advance cooking prep even (chocolate chip cookies and other fun things for the passage) to make this leg a little more fun.

It's weird how even though we had some pretty uncomfortable conditions the last time we were out, I already feel excited to get underway again...

Go figure.

Saying Goodbye to Minerva

We're expecting to leave Minerva tomorrow morning. The winds have backed, and we should have much improved conditions for the last 400+ miles that we have to cover before making landfall in Savusavu.

This has been an awesome little pit stop for us. We did some great snorkeling yesterday, had dinner with Piko and Dilligaf until late in the night and have managed to get the boat feeling a little more under control than it was when we raced out of Opua. I still haven't mounted our new solar panels, but otherwise we're in perfect shape and in high spirits.

We're doing a little advance cooking prep even (chocolate chip cookies and other fun things for the passage) to make this leg a little more fun.

It's weird how even though we had some pretty uncomfortable conditions the last time we were out, I already feel excited to get underway again...

Go figure.

Saying Goodbye to Minerva

We're expecting to leave Minerva tomorrow morning. The winds have backed, and we should have much improved conditions for the last 400+ miles that we have to cover before making landfall in Savusavu.

This has been an awesome little pit stop for us. We did some great snorkeling yesterday, had dinner with Piko and Dilligaf until late in the night and have managed to get the boat feeling a little more under control than it was when we raced out of Opua. I still haven't mounted our new solar panels, but otherwise we're in perfect shape and in high spirits.

We're doing a little advance cooking prep even (chocolate chip cookies and other fun things for the passage) to make this leg a little more fun.

It's weird how even though we had some pretty uncomfortable conditions the last time we were out, I already feel excited to get underway again...

Go figure.

Wednesday, May 9, 2012

Where we are now

Do you see the reef? Can you see the boats? So happy and thankful for GPS!

Beautiful clam living happily on North Minerva reef


We made "land fall" at North Minerva Reef yesterday. It feels so good to 1. not be bashing and banging around and seasick 2. be back in the tropics on Britannia 3. be clean, showered, relaxed and fed. 4. have alone/down time with Krister.

FYI to all cruisers: Minerva (23 37.284 S, 178 55.977 W) has good holding, lots of space (there are 15-20 boats anchored with us now- like a virtual marina) and it provides reasonable protection. There is a bit of roll at high tide but nothing compared to the roadstead anchorages of Baja. A nice place to stop in the middle of a passage if you need a rest or to wait for better weather.

This place that we are is like magic! It's in the middle of the ocean. If you didn't know it was here you'd never find it- and if you did accidentally run into it, you'd be in trouble. It goes from 1000 feet deep to dry land that's only inches above sea level. We just had to trust the coordinates- we couldn't see it with all the swell until we were about 100 yards away. So it feels like we're anchored in the middle of the ocean. There's NOTHING here. The only way to get here is on a private boat; not enough land for an plane to land, or build house, or grow anything... And it's kind of a no man's land. Fiji and Tonga dispute the claim to it. Not that it matters because after a few years of global warming it'll be underwater.

We're waiting here for the wind to blow from a different direction to make our passage to Fiji. Sounds like we'll be here until Friday (that's Thursday for you). While we wait I hope to get in the water and do some snorkeling. I saw a giant manta ray jump and belly flop while coming thru the pass- amazing. There should be a healthy coral eco-system since no one comes here to fish or throw toxins and garbage in the water.

Krister is also doing some boat work while we wait; our propane system needed help (the solenoid is out) and the toilet needed a new valve so it won't back fill. So thankful for that guy! I don't know how we would would manage this trip and living on a boat if he weren't an engineer.

So suddenly were back in cruising mode! Fantastic locations and dirty boat jobs. Feels good to be back home :)

A

Where we are now

We made "land fall" at North Minerva Reef yesterday. It feels so good to 1. not be bashing and banging around and seasick 2. be back in the tropics on Britannia 3. be clean, showered, relaxed and fed. 4. have alone/down time with Krister.

FYI to all cruisers: Minerva (23 37.284 S, 178 55.977 W) has good holding, lots of space (there are 15-20 boats anchored with us now- like a virtual marina) and it provides reasonable protection. There is a bit of roll at high tide but nothing compared to the roadstead anchorages of Baja. A nice place to stop in the middle of a passage if you need a rest or to wait for better weather.

This place that we are is like magic! It's in the middle of the ocean. If you didn't know it was here you'd never find it- and if you did accidentally run into it, you'd be in trouble. It goes from 1000 feet deep to dry land that's only inches above sea level. We just had to trust the coordinates- we couldn't see it with all the swell until we were about 100 yards away. So it feels like we're anchored in the middle of the ocean. There's NOTHING here. The only way to get here is on a private boat; not enough land for an plane to land, or build house, or grow anything... And it's kind of a no man's land. Fiji and Tonga dispute the claim to it. Not that it matters because after a few years of global warming it'll be underwater.

We're waiting here for the wind to blow from a different direction to make our passage to Fiji. Sounds like we'll be here until Friday (that's Thursday for you). While we wait I hope to get in the water and do some snorkeling. I saw a giant manta ray jump and belly flop while coming thru the pass- amazing. There should be a healthy coral eco-system since no one comes here to fish or throw toxins and garbage in the water.

Krister is also doing some boat work while we wait; our propane system needed help (the solenoid is out) and the toilet needed a new valve so it won't back fill. So thankful for that guy! I don't know how we would would manage this trip and living on a boat if he weren't an engineer.

So suddenly were back in cruising mode! Fantastic locations and dirty boat jobs. Feels good to be back home :)

A

Sunday, May 6, 2012

Single Handing

Amanda and I have both been sleeping more than we usually do on a passage. I think we're both just exhausted from the last three month marathon. At any event, it's been a less social passage as well since we both crash so hard after coming off watch.

The quali-solitude has made really stop and think about what it would be like to single hand a boat across an ocean. It's amazing the comfort that I think we both take from simply knowing that there's another person on the boat if you really need any help or company - there's a utilitarian aspect of course: a broken leg, concussion, accidental slip overboard... All of these become less dangerous with back up.

But more than that, the human need for another human's presence regardless of the depth of interaction is something that I hadn't really considered until now.

We've had pretty hectic conditions for the last few days - moderately big (10-12 ft) beamy seas and 25 to 35 knot winds without a break. It's not particularly dangerous when I think about it academically. The seas are big enough so that I guess a consequential rogue wave might be more likely or perhaps there's enough wind to make a major mechanical failure less implausible, but the boat's been humming along happily and taking the seas without compliant. Basically, this is just as safe as 10 knots and flat seas if I try to spin out bad scenarios.

Maybe a deeper familiarity with the ocean comes after more than 10,000 miles at sea, but at this point I'm not afraid to admit that conditions like these we've had are intimidating. Not having a person next to you to share those feelings would make me way more afraid. I can see how single handing could almost be a religious experience. It makes me wonder what kids in their teens must feel when they attempt something like a single handed circumnavigation.

Amanda's in the quarter berth, sleeping.

I'm glad she's here.

Friday, May 4, 2012

Third Day Euphoriaora

...or simply TDE (you can take the engineer out of the office, but...). There has to me some medical explanation for this phenomenon since it happens to me every passage. It might be as simple as just feeling well rested. I dunno.

But anyhow, the winds are perfect, the seas are perfect, Britannia is perfect, Amanda is perfect and I'm drinking it all in along with a perfect cup of tea.

Part of me feels like I need to find something to complain about just to make sure that I'm still on planet earth and haven't transcended. On the other hand, if this is heaven, it's fine by me.